Berkeley Plantation

Taking a slight deviation from my Civil War Battle sites campaign, I decided to visit a couple plantations resting on the beautiful James River. After all, this area is the location of some of the very first plantations built in the “new world”. I did use the Civil War criteria to help me pick one of the two plantations I visited.

Berkeley Plantation was used by General George McClellan as his headquarters during that portion of his Peninsula Campaign where he was retreating from General Lee. Little Mac, as he was affectionately called by his troops, felt it was important to hurry to Harrison’s Landing in order to save his Army and supplies from the aggressive Confederates, even though the Union decisively won the last battle of the Seven Days’ Battles - Malvern Hill - between the two armies before his final retreat to Harrison’s Landing.  If he had attacked the Rebels on the second day, instead of leaving the battlefield, McClellan very possibly would have done serious damage to Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia. All of McClellan’s officers agreed to stay and fight as the Rebs seemed confused and disorganized, but McClellan overruled them.

McClellan and his troops of over 140,000 men stayed at Berkeley for two months before loading on ships and heading back to Washington, D.C. McClellan stayed in the main house, living and working on the second floor while the first floor was used as a hospital for his wounded men.  

But, yet again, I drift from the topic at hand– Berkeley Plantation.

The entrance drive to Berkeley Plantation was a wonderful sight. Driving down the quarter mile of the tree-lined carriage path helped to set the tone for a visit with the past.

This plantation holds so much history, it is incredible. Starting on December 4, 1619 when the first English settlers landed on this ground and observed the first official Thanksgiving in America. That’s right. Eighteen months before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. Approximately 40 Englishmen were commissioned by Berkeley (pronounced Barkeley) Castle in England to settle the new world. Several years later, this settlement along with all the other white settlements located on this area of the James River were nearly wiped out by the local Indians. This land was eventually purchased by Benjamin Harrison IV.

Benjamin Harrison IV, in 1726, built Berkeley Plantation with bricks fired on site and trees from his land which was approximately 1,000 acres.  The date and the initials of the builders/owners still exist in a datestone that was built into the home over a side door.  This beautiful three story brick Georgian-style mansion is said to be the oldest in Virginia that can prove its date of construction. It is also the first that used a pediment roof. Harrison selected a site on a hill that overlooks the James River with an entrance from both the river side and the land side. This was done so that regardless of how Harrison’s guests arrived, by either boat or carriage, they would be coming through a main door and feel welcome.

The furnishings in this home are period furniture and beautiful. Unfortunately I was not permitted to take photos of the interior. Much of the furniture had been destroyed during the Revolutionary War and Mrs. Harrison replaced her loss with furnishings from Westover Plantation, her neighbor.

Benjamin Harrison IV was father to Benjamin Harrison V, a signer of the Declaration of Independence and three times Governor of Virginia. In addition to Benjamin V being born in this mansion, likewise, so was William Henry Harrison. He was Benjamin V’s third son. William Henry was famous as an Indian fighter and known as “Tippecanoe” and became the ninth President of the United States. His grandson, Benjamin Harrison, was the 23^rd President.

Due to the prominence of the Harrison Family in Virginia and the United States, the first ten Presidents visited Berkeley Plantation and enjoyed the warm hospitality. In addition, so did the 16^th President, Abraham Lincoln, as he visited General McClellan during McClellan’s encampment in 1862 at the end of his Peninsula Campaign.

The gardens for this plantation are beautiful and still well manicured. The terraced boxwoods and lawn cover 10 acres and extend a quarter mile from the front door to the James River. I found this area very peaceful and serene.

After the Civil War, the Harrison’s were not able to regain possession of the property, and after moving through several owners, fell into disrepair.  In 1907, the plantation was purchased by a New Yorker, John Jamieson. Jamieson was in the wood business and bought the property solely for the trees; he never visited Berkeley. Malcolm, John’s son, and Malcolm’s wife Grace eventually restored the plantation to its glory years.  Malcolm’s grandson, also named Malcolm, and his wife live in the upper two floors as they still allow the public to tour the first floor and the grounds.

The gazebo that Benjamin spent quite a bit of time in is called the Tea & Mint Julep House.

During the Union occupation of these grounds in 1862, General Daniel Butterfield summoned his bugler to his tent one afternoon. Butterfield had composed a few musical notes and wanted to hear them played on a bugle. He was searching for a new way to signal lights out for his troops. Oliver Norton, his bugler, played the notes, Butterfield tweaked them just a bit, and that simply they created what is perhaps the most well-known military sound – TAPS. I find this to be the most stirring of tunes I have ever heard.

One other historical fact connected to the Berkeley Plantation is that the first bourbon whiskey in America was distilled here in 1621.

I visited another plantation located on the James River which I will blog about later.